Host a fondue night

Cheese fondue is Swiss: a pot of melted cheese in the middle of the table and long forks for everyone. It’s surprisingly easy, it feels like an occasion, and it keeps a group around the table for the whole evening.

What to get

The classic cheeses are Gruyère and Emmental, usually about equal amounts. Allow roughly 4 to 5 ounces of cheese per person, depending on how much else you’re serving. For a cheap version, ask at the cheese counter for a fondue blend.

You’ll also need:

• Dry white wine, or unsalted stock or apple juice if you’d rather not use alcohol
• A garlic clove, a little cornstarch and a squeeze of lemon juice
• Bread, cut in bite-sized cubes and left out for an hour so it dries slightly
• Things to dip: boiled baby potatoes, apple or pear slices, pickles, steamed broccoli, cured meats
• Long forks or skewers, one per person

If you serve wine, only offer it to guests who are 21 or over in the US. It’s optional, and the fondue works without it.

How to make it

1. Grate the cheese yourself. Pre-grated cheese often has a coating that stops it melting smoothly.
2. Toss the grated cheese with a spoonful of cornstarch so it’s lightly coated.
3. Rub the inside of the pot with a cut garlic clove.
4. Warm a cup of white wine (or stock or apple juice) with a squeeze of lemon juice over medium-low heat until it’s steaming but not boiling.
5. Add the cheese a handful at a time, stirring in a figure of eight, and let each handful melt before the next.
6. Keep the heat low. Stir until it’s smooth and thick like cream.
7. Season with black pepper and a little nutmeg if you like.

Serving it safely

You can make it in a heavy saucepan and carry it to the table, or use a proper fondue pot. A fondue burner is an open flame, so:

• Put it on a flat, stable surface, away from sleeves, paper napkins, candles and anything that can catch.
• Keep long hair tied back and keep children and pets away from the burner.
• Fill the burner fuel before guests arrive and let it cool before refilling.
• Don’t leave the flame unattended.

If you’d rather skip the flame, an electric fondue pot or a small slow cooker on “warm” does the same job.

How to eat it

Spear a piece of bread, stir it through the cheese in a figure of eight and let it cool a moment before you eat it. Don’t double-dip if you’re sharing, and use a separate plate fork to eat from. Fondue stays good as long as it stays warm, so keep the burner on low.

What goes wrong

• It’s stringy or lumpy. The heat is too high or the cheese went in too quickly. Turn it down, add a splash of wine or lemon juice and stir hard.
• It’s too thick. Stir in a little warm wine, stock or apple juice.
• It’s too thin. Add a handful more cheese, tossed with a little cornstarch.
• The bottom is catching. Lower the heat and scrape the base. Stir constantly.
• Bread falls off the fork. Fish it out with a spoon, and agree a fun forfeit in advance if you like.

Chocolate to finish

After the cheese, melt chocolate for fruit and marshmallows. Chop about 7 ounces of dark or milk chocolate, warm it gently with a few spoonfuls of cream and stir until smooth. Dip strawberries, banana pieces, pretzels and marshmallows.

Make it a proper evening

Sit close, put the pot in the middle and keep the rest simple. Cheese fondue is rich, so serve a crisp green salad or pickles alongside it to cut the heaviness, and keep a pot of tea or sparkling water on the table. Ask guests in advance about dairy, gluten and other allergies, since cheese and bread are the whole meal, and have a few extra vegetables for anyone who can’t eat the bread.

Make it a winter evening

A fondue night works best on a cold evening with the lights low and friends close around the table. Ask each person to bring one dipper, and finish with a few rounds of game night while the chocolate melts.