Make latkes

Latkes are potato pancakes fried in oil, and they are a Hanukkah tradition: the oil recalls the miracle of the lamp in the story of the holiday. They are also just very good on a cold night, crisp at the edge and soft in the middle. This guide covers how to make latkes that stay crisp, and how to fry in hot oil without drama. Give yourself an evening, since most of the time goes on grating and frying in batches.

Before you start

Frying is the one part to take seriously. Hot oil can burn you badly, and an oil fire is not like other fires.

• Never leave the pan of hot oil alone, even for a moment.
• Keep a lid that fits the pan within reach. If oil catches fire, turn off the heat and slide the lid over it. Never pour water on it.
• Use a heavy, wide pan, and fill it only about a half-inch deep.
• Dry everything that goes in. Water makes hot oil spit.
• Tie back long hair and loose sleeves, and keep pets and children out of the kitchen.

What to use

For about 16 latkes:

• 2 pounds russet potatoes (about 4 large)
• 1 medium onion
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 3 tablespoons flour or matzo meal
• 1 teaspoon salt, and black pepper
• Neutral oil with a high smoke point, such as canola or vegetable oil

You’ll also want a box grater or food processor, a clean kitchen towel, and a rack set over a baking sheet.

How to make latkes

1. Grate. Peel the potatoes if you like (the skin is fine to leave on). Grate the potatoes and the onion on the large holes, or use a food processor. Work quickly.
2. Squeeze. Put the shreds in the clean towel, gather it up and twist hard over the sink. Keep squeezing until almost nothing drips out. This is the step that decides whether they crisp.
3. Save the starch. Let the squeezed liquid sit in a bowl for a few minutes. White starch settles on the bottom. Pour off the water and scrape that starch back into the potatoes, which helps bind them.
4. Mix. Stir the eggs, flour or matzo meal, salt and pepper into the potatoes.
5. Heat the oil. Warm about a half-inch of oil over medium to medium-high heat until it shimmers, around 350°F. A shred of potato should sizzle at once without browning fast.
6. Fry. Scoop about 2 tablespoons of mixture, press it flat in the pan and leave space between latkes. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes a side, until deep golden. Flip once.
7. Drain. Lift them onto the rack, not paper towels, which trap steam. Sprinkle with salt while hot.

Fry in batches and skim out stray bits between them so they don’t burn. Let the oil come back to temperature before each new batch.

What to serve

Applesauce and sour cream are the classic pair. Smoked salmon, a fried egg on top turns them into dinner. Some people like them with chives or a squeeze of lemon.

What goes wrong

• They are soggy. The potatoes were still wet, or the oil was too cool. Squeeze harder, and wait for the shimmer.
• They fall apart. Add a little more flour or matzo meal, and don’t skip the starch from the bowl.
• They burn outside and stay raw inside. The heat is too high, or the latkes are too thick. Lower the heat and press them thinner.
• The potatoes turn gray. They sat too long. Keep the onion in with them and fry soon after mixing.
• The oil smokes. Turn the heat down and let it settle. If it keeps smoking, take the pan off the heat and let it cool.

After

Let the oil cool completely before you deal with it, then pour it into a sealed container and put it in the trash. Don’t pour it down the drain. Leftover latkes keep in the fridge for a few days and reheat well in a hot oven.

Make it a winter evening

Latkes are best eaten hot, right off the rack, so invite a few people and fry while they eat. Light the menorah first if the holiday is yours, or just make the night about food, and finish with a hot chocolate.