Thrift a sweater

Knowing how to thrift comes down to a few habits: go with a rough idea, look through everything, and check what you buy before you pay. A thrifted sweater is the best place to practise, because it’s one of the best fall buys: warm, often wool, and very unlikely to match anyone else’s. These thrifting tips are built around finding one great sweater.

Before you go

Decide on a rough idea so the racks don’t blur together. A chunky knit, a cardigan, a stripe, a colour you don’t have. You don’t need to stick to it, but it gives you something to look for.

Take a few dollars. Most thrift store sweaters fall within a few dollars to under $20, but prices vary by shop. Wear a thin top and leggings so you can try things on over them, and take a friend if you like. It’s more fun with one person, and a second opinion helps.

Where to look

Go to the knitwear section, and if there isn’t one, look through the women’s tops, then the men’s sweaters. Men’s and oversized sweaters often have the best chunky knits and the best fit if you like a slouchy shape. Check the cardigans too. Look through every rack, because the good ones are never at the front.

Weekday afternoons are usually quieter than weekends. Many shops put out new stock regularly, so ask when.

Read the tag

The fibre tag tells you what you’re buying.

• Wool, lambswool, merino, cashmere and alpaca are warm, soft and last for years.
• Cotton and cotton blends are good for lighter layers.
• Acrylic and polyester are cheaper fibres. They’re fine, but they pill more and don’t breathe as well.
• No tag means you can’t be sure. Feel it and judge it by weight and softness.

A higher percentage of natural fibre is a good sign, though a blend isn’t bad.

Check it properly

Don’t skip this, because the tag only tells half the story.

1. Hold it up to the light. Small holes show up.
2. Check the underarms, the elbows and the cuffs, which wear out first.
3. Look at the neckline and hem. They shouldn’t be stretched out or frayed.
4. Run your hand over the surface. A little pilling is normal and can be removed. Big felted patches are not.
5. Smell it. A strong smell of smoke or damp can be hard to remove.
6. Look for moth holes. Small, irregular holes in wool, especially near the seams, are a reason to put it back.
7. Try it on. Move your arms. It should feel comfortable, not tight across the shoulders.

A small hole isn’t the end of the world, since it’s a chance to mend a sweater, but don’t buy something you won’t get around to fixing.

Getting it home

Wash it before you wear it. Follow the care label. If it’s wool, hand wash it in cool water with a gentle wool wash, press out the water without wringing it, and dry it flat on a towel. Heat shrinks wool, so keep it away from hot water and the dryer.

A sweater shaver or a fabric comb takes off pilling, which makes an old sweater look much newer.

If you don’t find one

Some days you won’t. That’s part of thrifting. Try another shop, or go again in a week or two. Stock changes, and there are more sweaters in the shops as the weather gets colder.

What a good one is worth

A sweater that fits well, feels soft and has no damage is a good find at almost any price in the thrift store. A well-made knit can last for many years, so you’re likely to wear it again next fall. If a price feels high for what it is, you can put it back. There will be another.

Styling it

Chunky sweaters look good with straight jeans or a long skirt and boots. A cardigan can go over a dress or a plain T-shirt. Try the sleeves pushed up, or the hem tucked in at the front. If it’s very oversized, a belt at the waist gives it a shape. Wear it a few ways before you decide it’s not for you.

Make it a fall evening

Go after work when it’s getting dark, take a friend, and finish with a hot drink. Wear your find the next day, and put it on the list for your closet switch if you haven’t done it yet.