Sew a pair of pajama pants

Pajama pants are the classic first sewing project. There are four pieces, the seams are mostly straight, and the waistband is plain elastic, so it is hard to ruin. Pick the coziest flannel you can find, and set aside half a day. By the end you have something you will wear all winter.

Choosing fabric and a pattern

Cotton flannel is warm and forgiving, which is why it is the usual first choice. Choose a plain print or a small pattern, because large prints and plaids are harder to line up. Wash and dry the fabric the way you plan to wash the finished pants, because flannel often shrinks.

Pick a beginner pattern, from a pattern envelope, a shop or a free online one. The pattern tells you how much fabric and elastic to buy, and which size to cut. Measure yourself and use the pattern’s chart, not your usual shop size.

What to bring, beyond the list

• Fabric scissors or a rotary cutter and mat.
• Pins or clips.
• Thread that matches the fabric.
• A safety pin or bodkin to thread the elastic.
• An iron and ironing board.
• A seam ripper, for the stitches you will want to undo.
• Tailor’s chalk or a fabric pen.

How to sew pajama pants

1. Prepare the fabric. Wash, dry and press it, then fold it as the pattern says.
2. Cut the pieces. Most beginner patterns have you cut four leg pieces: a front and a back for each leg. Follow the pattern’s markings, lay the pieces on the fabric with the grain running down the legs, and cut.
3. Sew each leg. For each leg, place a front and a back with right sides together, pin and sew the inner leg seam from the crotch to the ankle. Then sew the outer seam. Use a straight stitch and the seam allowance the pattern gives.
4. Join the legs. Turn one leg right side out and slide it inside the other, right sides together, so the crotch seams line up. Pin and sew the crotch seam in a curve from front to back. Sew it again just inside the first seam to strengthen it.
5. Press the seams open or to one side. Try the pants on if you want, to check the fit.
6. Hem the legs. Fold the bottom edge up about half an inch, press, fold again, and sew close to the edge.
7. Make the waistband. Fold the top edge down about an inch and a half to make a casing for the elastic, press, and sew round it, leaving a gap of about two inches.
8. Thread the elastic. Use a safety pin to guide the elastic through the casing, keeping hold of the end. Overlap the ends, try on the pants to check the fit, and sew the ends together.
9. Close the gap by sewing the casing shut.
10. Trim the threads and press everything.

What goes wrong

• The legs are twisted. You joined the wrong sides. Unpick with the seam ripper and check that each leg’s inner seam matches.
• The crotch seam is tight or rips. Sew it twice, and clip small notches into the curve so it lies flat.
• The elastic twists in the casing. Pin the end so it can’t slip through, and straighten it as you go.
• The pants are too long or too short. Try them on before hemming, and make the hem as deep as you need.
• Puckered stitching. Slow down, let the machine feed the fabric, and use a longer stitch if the flannel is thick.

Looking after them

Wash in cool or warm water as the fabric allows and dry on a low setting. Flannel often keeps softening with every wash, and the first lot of lint is normal.

Getting the fit right

Measure your waist and hips, and compare them with the pattern’s size chart. If you are between sizes, choose the larger one, since pajama pants are meant to be roomy. The pattern will tell you how long to cut the elastic, which is usually a little shorter than your waist so it holds. Try the pants on after sewing the legs and before hemming, so you can adjust the length and the waistband.

Make it a winter day

Start in the morning so you finish in daylight, with a break for lunch. Plan to wear them that night with a movie marathon, or turn it into a pajama spa night once they are done.